InstaHedge Installation guide
Information and advice for installing InstaHedge products.
All-in-One Strips
Excavate a trench to our specifications and ideally install within the same day of delivery
having added specified slow release fertilizer for optimum growth.
When the hedging arrives at your site you will forklift it straight off the lorry in a 2.5m
section, pull the geotextile of the bottom of the plant and install straight into the
pre-prepared trench when a slow release fertiliser is mixed into the soil that will back fill
the hedge and water.
Bare Root
Bare Root hedging units are delivered with there roots exposed, rather than with soil on
like the root balled hedging units. Not all types of hedging can be delivered this way.
However if you don't want a full mature hedge or you can wait a couple of year this option is
ideal.
We do recommend that all bare root hedging units should be planted ASAP as the roots are
dormant and should be kept moist at all times while exposed.
Advantages of planting bare-root plants are mostly economical. Plants are less expensive to
produce because of the ease of harvesting, storing and shipping. Many species respond well to
bare-root harvesting. A greater portion and longer roots are retained after harvesting and
roots are easily inspected at planting time. Damaged roots can be trimmed and girdling roots
can be removed before planting. Bare-root plants should be planted while they are completely
dormant. Landscape-sized bare-root trees usually require staking.
Root Balled and Wire Root Balled Units
A major advantage of rootballed plants is that soil types can be matched, thereby reducing
any interface problems that might inhibit water movement between the rootball and surrounding
soil of the landscape site. Plants moved by rootball are subject to seasonal constraints. The
most favourable seasons are when transpiration demand is low and root generation potential is
high, such as in autumn, winter and early spring. With the much-reduced root system, water is
a critical element in the successful transplanting of rootballed plants.
The most important consideration in planting rootballed plants is the planting depth. Don't
plant too deep. It is better to plant in a raised manner so the roots will not drown or
suffocate. Dig planting holes 2 to 3 times wider than the rootball and the same depth. Locate
the rootball on solid soil and not loose backfill. Wire baskets do not need to be completely
removed from large field grown trees. Cut and fold down the top half of the basket, fold back
the burlap, and remove nylon strings. Be sure to remove plastic liners or synthetic burlap
type materials.
For the most efficient use of water, construct an earthen dam 4 to 6 inches high around the
drip zone area of the plant after planting.
Water will have the ability to collect in this saucer and move slowly down into the planting hole.
Runoff will be minimized.
Containerised Hedging
The advantage of using plants grown in containers is that 100% of the roots are in the
container. The plant then goes through limited transplant shock if given adequate follow-up
care. Container-grown plants can be planted into the landscape year-round. Plants produced in
containers, in a soilless medium (usually bark and sand), are much lighter than rootballed
plants. This is very helpful to home gardeners who may not have large equipment to handle the
heavy plants.
The main disadvantage of container-grown plants is the possibility of deformed roots.
"Rootbound" plants have roots circling inside the container. The entangled roots are a
physical barrier to future root growth and development. If this condition is not corrected at
planting time, the plant may experience slow growth and establishment because of the girdled
roots. Some form of root mass disturbance is recommended before planting.
